Daihachi

Step past the noren curtain of Daihachi in Nishi-Shichijo, Shimogyo Ward, and you are welcomed into a compact counter-seating space with the easy warmth of visiting family. Run by a husband-and-wife team, this modest izakaya holds only about 10 seats, yet warmly receives everyone who walks in, turning an everyday evening drink into a comforting retreat.

A natural place to begin is the beef tendon stew, widely praised among visitors for its deep, thoroughly absorbed flavours. Alongside the simmered dishes, the kitchen turns out a varied spread of drink-friendly small plates, from braised fish and home-style potato salad to freshly fried oysters. Fresh fish dishes vary with the day's catch, and heartier appetites are well catered to with fragrant stir-fried yakisoba and juicy tonkatsu, making the counter a dependable stop for a full evening meal.

Sipping on a beer or cocktail over a succession of small plates, diners often find conversation with the hosts or counter neighbours striking up on its own. Whether popping in on your own or settling down with friends, the setting provides a relaxed, unpretentious way to spend an evening in Kyoto.